Haley comes upstairs into the kitchen. Sniffs the atmosphere, which is fragrant with oregano and onion, garlic and yeast. She peers into the kettle-wide sauce pan and stirs its depths. Then she sighs.
"I thought this was the good sauce."
Kendell comes into the kitchen shortly after her annoyed exit. His shoulders slump in exaggerated disgust. "What? We're having spaghetti for dinner tonight?" His tone suggests that I might as well be cooking up a big batch of appetizing horse manure, he's looking forward to the meal that much.
When dinner is finished and served, Haley will eat breadsticks and salad. Kaleb will eat plain spaghetti with just a little bit of butter and parmesan. Nathan will dutifully eat, but only after picking out every offending mushroom. Jake's plate will be cleaned, but he won't comment or compliment. Kendell will have seconds.
But I will be in bliss.
Because despite my family's lackluster (and, frankly, rude) response, spaghetti with red sauce is my favorite comfort food. It is the good sauce: tomato rich, generously garlicked, spiced exactly right. I use a mixture of sausage and hamburger; I saute the mushrooms—cut chunky yet small—in olive oil and burgundy cooking wine; I puree the tomatoes until no offending lumps remain. I toss in a bit of sugar and I let everything simmer as long as time allows. I serve it with as many handfuls of (real) Parmesan as you want.
I'm not sure how that can't be the good sauce.
Haley's version of "good" comes from a jar. Granted, it is good: I only buy the Bertolli Marinara. It's an excellent sauce. But still, not as good as my red sauce.
Kendell's spaghetti disgust comes from his claim that it's what every member served him while he was on his mission. He tells one story about going to dinner at someone's home; the family had steak and shrimp in the dining room while the missionaries ate spaghetti with Ragu in the kitchen. He doesn't like it runny or lumpy. In fact, he only doesn't complain over spaghetti if I make it like his mom did: a can of cream of mushroom, a can of tomato. Soup. Soup as spaghetti sauce. I love my mother-in-law but I don't love her spaghetti sauce.
Kaleb, of course, doesn't like anything. The boys are generally OK with the meal; it's not their favorite but they willingly suffer through it. (Especially because those garlic breadsticks nearly always accompany our spaghetti.)
But to me, spaghetti with (my) red sauce is the ultimate comfort food. I eat an enormous portion because, honestly, it makes me feel happy. It reminds me of my childhood, when my mom made a similar spaghetti sauce, only hers had tomatoes she'd canned herself. Michele would mix hers with peas and freak us all out, every time. Becky would poke through hers, making sure there wasn't a tomato lump in sight, and I would hide (or not) my irritation over her anti-tomato sentiments. We had Parmesan from a can (didn't everyone in the 80's?) and some sort of vegetable (because my mother never, ever serves a meal without a vegetable) and tall glasses of milk. Because of when my gymnastics workouts were (5 to 8 p.m.), I ate plenty of these spaghetti meals late, alone at the kitchen table, muscle-weary and bloody-handed. Sinking my fork into that steaming mound of noodles and sauce was nutritional solace.
I was comforted.
Of course, now I am nearly 40. Now my longest workout is only about an hour. Now I have to be more careful of what I eat. Now I live in a household overrun by a family who doesn't love red sauce. They tear me up a bit, the negative comments. The spaghetti resistance. But not enough that I plan on ever ceasing my own spaghetti nights. Instead, I feed everyone else first: the noodleless, the sauceless, an extra napkin for the mushroom discarder. I wait to eat until everyone else has left the kitchen. Then I butter my noodles, just a bit. I make sure the sauce is hot. I toss a handful of cheese onto the plate. (I don't even save room for the breadsticks.) Alone, I don't simply eat, but feed myself; I don't simply feed but I nurture. If there is emotional healing to be found in any food, it is here, on the plate of spaghetti, in the way the plump noodle nestles the savory, fragrant sauce in a nest, how it feels in your mouth, how it tastes on your tongue. Surrounded by the spaghetti resistance, who would thoroughly disagree, I feel I have come, at last, to the end of my day having done some good thing for the world.
What is your comfort food?